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Where to Go Rock Climbing in Russia

It’s almost impossible to think of a sport or extreme hobby that cannot be pursued in Russia due to the lack of suitable terrain, conditions, or other natural features.

Russia is so vast that it includes mountains, rivers, seas, oceans, forests, and steppes…

Yes, the Greek island of Kalymnos is mythically beautiful and captivating for young climbers.

Yes, every professional climber dreams of the “LA RAMBLA Direct” rock in sunny Spain .

However, Russia also boasts many excellent spots for rock climbing.

Krasnoyarsk Stolby

Undoubtedly topping this list is Krasnoyarsk Stolby. It is here that many well-known climbers and alpinists, including the Abalakov brothers , began their journeys.

Krasnoyarsk Stolby is a world-famous nature reserve located in the Eastern Sayan range, characterized by its whimsical volcanic rock formations.

The landscapes here are truly magical. From the Stolby (pillars), you can see the tributaries of the Yenisei River. Giant taiga fir trees set against the rocks create a fantastic panorama.

Krasnoyarsk Stolby Krasnoyarsk Stolby

For over 150 years, Krasnoyarsk locals have been coming here for outdoor activities. The concept of Stolbizm was even born here. It’s not just rock climbing; it’s a way of life.

The area is generally divided into three climbing zones:

  • the Takmakovsky (Bazaikha River valley);
  • the central zone (7 km from the reserve boundary);
  • the wild zone (closed to regular visitors).

Most of the pillars are named, but interestingly, the routes leading up—known as “hods”—also have specific names.

Second Pillar Second Pillar

For instance, on the tallest Second Pillar, which stands at about 96 meters and has the word “freedom” inscribed since tsarist times, there are routes such as:

  • “Saratchevka”;
  • “Kachalovsky Hod”;
  • and the “Freedom” route.

The Stolby rocks are notable for not having many cracks, shaping the local climbing style.

Since local climbers often prefer pure climbing without safety gear, tragic accidents are inevitable.

Thus, there are several recommendations for those who want to conquer these rocks:

  • Exercise extreme caution during transitional seasons;
  • Descending is as dangerous as ascending;
  • Assess your ability to descend before climbing up;
  • Morning and evening hours are especially hazardous as thin ice layers may form on the rocks at those times;
  • Safety gear can save lives.

Since 1949, climbing competitions have been held in Krasnoyarsk.

Since 1964, All-Russian climbing competitions in memory of Yevgeny Abalakov have been held here.

Karelian Rocks

Not far from St. Petersburg (and just a short trip from Moscow!) lie the Karelian rocks. These have been a favorite destination for generations of climbers from Russia’s central regions.

Rock Parnassus (Lake Yastrebinoe) Скала Парнас (озеро Ястребиное)

These granite rocks demand a specific climbing technique .

Many of Russia’s renowned climbers honed their skills here.

Several climbing zones exist, with the main ones being:

  • the rocks of Triangular Lake;
  • the large rocks at Yastrebinoe Lake;
  • the Hiitola rocks;
  • and the Shuy Rocks.

Recently, bouldering has become especially popular here. The rocks near Triangular Lake are ideal for this type of climbing.

Over 150 routes of varying difficulty have been developed in the surrounding area.

Special climbing gear such as a rope and quickdraws will be required, along with personal essentials like comfortable clothing and climbing shoes .

The climbing season in these parts runs from May to October, though the ideal time is July-August. However, in June, thanks to the white nights, you can climb around the clock.

Camping Camping

There are several accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets:

  • paid campgrounds ;
  • free campgrounds;
  • recreation bases;
  • equipped campsites.

For example, in the Lietlakhti park, there’s a well-maintained campground with electricity, Internet, a kitchen, toilets, and a sauna. Visitors can stay in the park owner’s house or use tent campsites near the lakes.

When traveling to the rocks of Triangular Lake, keep in mind that it’s a border zone, so you’ll need a permit. Applications are free but must be submitted 30 days in advance of your trip.

Don’t forget insect and tick repellents! Every year in May, up to a thousand people from all over Russia gather at the Big Rocks near Hawk Lake for a large-scale event called “Rock Festival”. Competitions are held in various types of rock climbing with participation from both professionals and amateurs.

Krasnodar Krai

In the Krasnodar Krai, there is the hamlet of Guamka, which is located 170 km from Krasnodar. In terms of rock climbing, this area can be considered young but very promising.

Guamka Gorge Guamka Gorge The sandstone rock formations facilitate the development of new routes. Currently, climbers have established up to 250 routes of varying levels of difficulty, ranging from grade 4 to grade 9.

Visiting is recommended from July to September, during the period of least precipitation. However, there are climbing sectors here that can be explored even in the rain.

Special equipment required includes a rope (60m) and about 15 quickdraws. For personal gear, a helmet is strongly recommended. Some slopes are crumbly, posing a risk of being struck by falling rocks.

For bouldering enthusiasts, no routes have been set up here.

However, there are equipped routes for other types of climbing.

Camping Site Camping Site Accommodation options in the village of Guamka include:

  • Your own tent;
  • Private sector rentals;
  • Guesthouses;
  • Tourist lodges;
  • Standard hotels;
  • Luxurious hotels.

The “Guamka Festival” is held annually. As part of this festival, competitions are organized for athletes, amateurs, and beginners.

For example, in 2015, around 100 routes of varying difficulty were offered. Competitors were divided into age and skill groups. The youngest group included participants 11 years old and under, while the oldest group consisted of veterans aged 60 and over.

Tip: Be sure to try the local honey!

After all, this product will not harm a climber’s diet (of course, in reasonable quantities!).

Stavropol Krai

In the Stavropol Krai, there is an excellent area for year-round rock climbing – Berezovskaya Gorge. These limestone rocks are located very close to the city of Kislovodsk (you can walk there!).

Berezovskaya Gorge Berezovskaya Gorge

As early as the 1980s, competitions in winter rock climbing were held here.

Climbing enthusiasts on natural terrain continued to organize the “In Memory of Friends” Festival even during the challenging 1990s. Even with the advent of climbing gyms , they remained loyal to these cliffs. Thanks to their enthusiasm and efforts, the festival gained nationwide status in 2008.

The Berezovsky cliffs hold tremendous potential. It is believed that up to 1,000 climbing routes of varying difficulty levels could be developed there.

Currently, about 100 routes have been created, ranging from grade 4 to 8.

Thanks to its proximity to Kislovodsk, there are many accommodation options:

  • A tent on the banks of the Berezovka River;
  • Private sector housing (apartments) in the city;
  • Hotels;
  • Boarding houses;
  • On the premises of the Ministry of Emergency Situations (by arrangement).

It is said that the local residents sell fragments of wild stone, i.e., pieces of the cliffs (it’s their business!). However, it’s best not to give in to this temptation and haul rocks home; instead, come to these wonderful places yourself.

It’s impossible to list or describe all the rock climbing areas in Russia. You can climb in Kabardino-Balkaria, in the Rostov and Lipetsk regions, and in the Urals

Video

Check out bouldering at the rocks of Triangular Lake:

https://vimeo.com/74315103

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