Rock Climbers
Undoubtedly, no single article can accommodate stories about all the famous, renowned, and even lesser-known rock climbers of Russia.
This young sport is developing at a rapid pace, sometimes slowing down, other times making leaps forward and upward, giving rise to new heroes.
Without aspiring to originality or wishing to offend any climbers, let’s remember a few individuals from the constellation of Russian rock climbers.
At the Origins
Abalakov Brothers
Of course, opening this honorary list are the Abalakov brothers. Although they are best known as mountaineers and their contributions to the development of mountaineering are invaluable, their athletic journey began on the Stolby pillars of Krasnoyarsk. There, under the guidance of the Beznasco brothers, they mastered
climbing techniques
.
The paths of the two brothers were very different.
The elder, Vitaly Mikhailovich (1906-1992), lived a long life. He was not only a conqueror of peaks (Lenin Peak, Victory Peak, and around 150 other ascents of varying difficulty), but also the inventor of over a hundred pieces of mountaineering equipment (for example, the backpack). There was even a joke about the “Abalakov era,” featuring the Abalakov backpack, tights, harness…
Vitaly Mikhailovich Abalakov created an actual school of mountaineering. He authored the book “Fundamentals of Mountaineering,” written in 1941, which remains relevant even today.
The younger, Evgeny Mikhailovich (1907-1948), led a shorter life, dying under unclear circumstances in Moscow. However, he was the first to conquer 13 of the highest peaks. And what is a trailblazer? What courage and skill must one possess to go where no one has ever been? Evgeny was a participant in the Great Patriotic War. Moreover, he was an outstanding sculptor, a student of V.I. Mukhina (the creator of the monument “Worker and Kolkhoz Woman”).
St. Petersburg Climbers (Leningrad)
V.V. Markelov, 1975
In the Karelian forests, there are the Near and Far Crags – the very place where
Leningrad’s climbers
gathered and still gather for training. It must be thanks to these crags that such a strong team of Leningrad climbers emerged.
Among this group of climbers are notable figures like V.G. Staritsky, V.V. Markelov, and his students A. Martyushov and A. Samoylov, along with G. Gavrilov, E. Lobachov, Y. Manoilov, and A. Lipchinsky.
Viktor Markelov (1943) became the USSR champion in climbing 13 times, completing about 150 various ascents. He began climbing in 1963 encouraged by his father, an alpinist. He hasn’t left his passion behind to this day, though the mountains took someone dear to him; in 1990, his wife Olga (absolute USSR climbing champion in 1973) tragically passed away.
Viktor Viktorovich Markelov is truly a legend of Leningrad climbing.
In addition to coaching, he participates in climbing festivals and teaches at the Polytechnic University. He has two adult daughters, and at the age of 64, he became a father for the third time and is now raising a son.
Half a century ago, he climbed crags wearing glued-on shoes, having no idea about climbing shoes . He passionately searched for galoshes across the country, firmly believing there was no better footwear for climbing crags.
Krasnoyarsk Climbers
В.Г.Путинцев (в центре)
The Krasnoyarsk Stolby also produced a strong climbing team.
First and foremost, let us remember the coach of many Krasnoyarsk climbers, V.G. Putintsev. He is the only individual to be awarded the title of Honored Coach of the USSR in climbing.
At the age of 66, V.G. Putintsev ascended the highest peak of the USSR – Peak Communism. There, he left a note for the person who would conquer the peak at an older age than he.
Vladimir Grigorievich founded the first school for climbing in the USSR in 1975 and trained around a hundred prize-winning climbers. Among them are Alexander Gubanov, Alexander Demin, Nikolai Moltyansky, Yuri Andreev, Valery Balezyn, Yulia Krupenina, Galina Gutorina, and Nina Dobrova.
Александр Губанов (справа)
Alexander Gubanov (1948) was repeatedly a champion of Russia and the world in climbing. He holds the titles of Honored Master of Sports and Honored Coach.
There is an interesting story in his climbing career. In 1973, he was at an international competition in Great Britain. During the event, a Swiss climbing team encountered a tragedy: the climber was killed, and the climber’s teammate was left hanging on a rope , unconscious. While the stunned foreign participants hesitated, Gubanov free-climbed 40 meters of a vertical wall and rescued the climber. He performed this heroic act in galoshes (the only footwear available to Soviet climbers at the time!).
Alexander Gubanov’s galoshes are now displayed in the National Mountaineering Museum in Great Britain.
Alexander Gubanov is the father of six children! He currently resides in Krasnoyarsk and consistently visits all the city’s art exhibitions. A man of astonishing modesty and youthful spirit.
Valeriy Balezyn
Valeriy Balezyn (1953) succeeded two Alexanders (Gubanov and Demin). He was drawn into climbing by the beauty of Krasnoyarsk’s Stolby cliffs.
He is considered the most decorated climber, with over 60 medals to his name. He held the top spot for 15 years. In the USSR, he was the only athlete to achieve the title of Master of Sports of International Class in both mountaineering and rock climbing.
His poise and calmness inspired numerous legends. His cool-headedness helped him lead the way through the most challenging rock sections, paving the path for others. According to friends, only he could “read” a rock face he’d never climbed before.
He currently works as a coach, and his students consistently achieve outstanding results.
Women
This sport did not immediately embrace women. Only in the 1960s did women’s courses appear in competitions. Many female names are now part of climbing history:
Alma-Ata native M. Spitsyna (later representing Krasnoyarsk),
Leningrad residents N. Korablina, N. Novikova, V. Vydrik, O. Markelova, and G. Saganenko,
Muscovite N. Timofeeva,
Krasnoyarsk climbers D. Dobrova and N. Vershinina.
Galina Saganenko
Galina Saganenko (1940) is currently a doctor of sociological sciences, professor, and lecturer at the St. Petersburg University of Culture and Arts.
G. Saganenko was the champion of Leningrad in various rock climbing disciplines seven times. She also had other sports victories. She transitioned to rock climbing from gymnastics. Although she practiced gymnastics for many years, rock climbing tipped the scales in its favor.
She is a candidate for Master of Sports in rock climbing and a candidate for Master of Sports in mountaineering. Among climbers, the young Galina was called the “Black Panther.”
Galina’s coaching talents also yielded excellent results. Her student N. Novikova (Putintseva) surpassed her teacher, becoming a six-time USSR rock climbing champion.
Nina Novikova
Nina Novikova (1944) is an associate professor in the Department of Physical Culture and Sports at St. Petersburg State University.
Nina Timofeevna maintains her physical shape to this day. She leads a team of like-minded individuals, veteran climbers , who refuse to be idle, continue training, and participate in competitions to this day.
Thus, Nina Timofeevna Novikova became a champion in individual climbing at international competitions in 2013.
She began her climbing career while studying in Leningrad. Her foundation for success in climbing was her interest in gymnastics. Initially, what attracted her wasn’t climbing itself but the camaraderie in the mountaineering club and trips to the rocks in Karelia. At a competition in Crimea in 1967, she was struck by the performance of the renowned climber M. Khergiani (now, there is a cliff in Crimea named after him).
Such are the climbers! Each has their own story, but they are united by a love for this fascinating, somewhat dangerous sport, which develops not only physical but also mental and human qualities.
Blessed memory to those who have passed away! Health and long life to those still active! And victories to the young generation!
Video
Climbers’ anthem:
