This long-read will help you figure out how to choose your first stunt scooter: by components, skill level, weight and size, price, and some non-obvious nuances. Everything you need to know about your first custom pro scooter is in this guide.
How is a stunt scooter different from a city scooter?
- No folding mechanism;
- Handlebar height is not adjustable;
- No plastic components;
- Small wheels;
- Lighter weight;
- Upgradable parts.
Structural and visual differences between a city scooter and a pro stunt scooter.
Stunt scooters for street riding are maximally lightweight, park scooters are slightly heavier, but the use of advanced materials allows manufacturers to gradually approach the ideal weight of 3.5 kg.
What materials are used for main components of professional stunt scooters?
- 4130 CrMo Steel: This alloy includes chromium and molybdenum. It is prized for its strength-to-weight ratio.
- 6061 Aluminum: An alloy with magnesium and silicon that is relatively easy to weld and strong, yet flexible. Often labeled with thermal treatment grade T6, which improves its strength. Due to its lightweight properties, 6061 aluminum is a favorite for manufacturing professional components for extreme scooters.
- 7075 Aluminum (7000 Series): A hardened zinc aluminum alloy, stronger than 6061.
How to Choose a Stunt Scooter by Components?
A scooter consists of a deck, fork, headset, handlebar, compression system, wheels, and brake. Let’s take a closer look at each part, starting with the compression system.
Compression and Clamps
The system that connects the handlebars to the fork is the foundation of stability and safety for both the scooter and the rider. Extra attention should be paid to the compression system when selecting parts for assembly. It’s recommended to start building a custom scooter with this component.
Professional stunt scooters use two types of compression systems:
- SCS (Standard Compression System)
- HIC (Hidden Internal Compression)
1. Standard Compression System SCS
This is the most commonly used system for professional scooters. It is regarded as highly durable, capable of withstanding jumps and hard landings, and is both reliable and versatile. In this system, the handlebars are fixed by the top two bolts of the clamp, while the fork is secured by the bottom two.
SCS compression system consisting of a clamp, spacer, bolts, and a star nut.
Despite its weight, SCS is the leader in professional extreme scooters due to its reliability during drop-ins, backflips, and even barspin practice, where beginners might repeat moves hundreds of times a day. A good compression system is essential.
SCS Components: A standard fork (SCS, HIC, or IHC-compatible with a spacer), a four-bolt clamp, a compression bolt with a washer.
This is the only compression system that requires handlebars without a slit, providing the maximum possible compression pressure. It is also low-maintenance.
Differences in SCS Clamps:
- Standard clamps accommodate Oversize 34.9 mm handlebars and Standard 31.8 mm handlebars with a shim. Clamp height is usually 3–4 inches.
- Lite versions (Baby SCS) only fit Standard handlebars and are typically 3 inches tall.
2. HIC Compression System
Compatible with all HIC/SCS forks and oversized steel handlebars. Its pros and cons include ease of installation, good price-to-durability ratio, and lightweight construction. The downside of HIC lies in the required slit on the handlebars, which weakens the most stressed connection on the scooter. Oversized handlebars, spacers, or incomplete clamps may also limit compatibility with certain setups.
HIC Compression Features:
- Compatible with oversized handlebars with a slit;
- Clamps come with two, three, or four bolts;
- Designed for HIC/SCS forks with a spacer;
- Requires a specific tool for installation.
The anatomy of the HIC compression system for scooters.
Despite some drawbacks, HIC remains popular among riders looking for an ultra-lightweight stunt scooter. Sometimes, a single component can disrupt the balance of a scooter, and using a lighter or heavier compression system can help fine-tune it.
HIC compression shim for a scooter.
HIC Components: HIC-compatible fork, spacer, a 34.9 mm clamp, compression bolt with a cap and star nut. The clamp is not always included in the package. 3. Alternative Compression Systems for Scooters
Threaded Compression is a basic solution for the simplest urban models. The threaded design is fragile and unreliable, making its use in stunt scooters unacceptable and dangerous.
ICS (Inverted Compression System) used to be prevalent in good entry-level scooters about 10 years ago, but it has since been replaced by more advanced systems. Its primary disadvantage lies in the inconvenience of maintenance—you need to remove the wheel to tighten the ICS.
ICS 10 is a more efficient version of ICS (with less fragile components) but is far less effective compared to HIC and SCS. It is incompatible with most modern scooters. Similarly, you must remove the wheel to tighten it. It’s worth mentioning that in a skate park, you will not find ICS or ICS 10 compression systems on any extreme scooter.
IHC is a lightweight version of HIC, integrated directly into the fork, and designed for a standard 31.8 mm handlebar. This type of compression requires IHC forks with a reduced stem, compatible handlebars, and clamps with 2, 3, or 4 bolts. Occasionally, you may encounter so-called Mini HIC systems, which require specific compatible parts.
Pytel Compression System was patented in 2015 by Michael Pytel. The system has not been widely adopted by manufacturers, although it is the simplest and lightest solution—no anchors, a combination of clamp and compression, no compression bolts or caps, and so on. Pytel is compatible with slotted bars. However, despite its minimal weight and cost, the Pytel compression system has serious drawbacks: it is weaker than HIC and SCS due to the lack of internal reinforcements; clamp bolts frequently loosen, requiring you to carry a hex key in your pocket. Over time, Pytel may gain popularity in lightweight complete scooters, but for custom builds, it’s not an option.
Clamp (Collar)
The scooter clamp connects the handlebars and fork, securing the headset in place. The choice of clamp for a stunt scooter depends on the compression system—for example, an SCS clamp is part of the compression system and always has four bolts, while clamps for HIC and ICS typically have three or two bolts.
The higher the quality of the clamp on the scooter, the less often you will need to tighten the compression due to looseness or wobbling.
Scooter clamps for stunt scooters
Most clamps for stunt scooters come with a shim and are therefore compatible with both handlebar sizes.
Height of scooter clamps with varying bolt counts
Deck
One of the most crucial components of a professional stunt scooter, the deck endures peak loads along with the fork and wheels. Generally, scooter decks are geared toward two riding styles: street and park. However, you can perform tricks like boardslides or hurricanes on any deck—it all comes down to habit and personal comfort.
Decks for professional stunt scooters
Street decks have flat bottoms, sometimes with rails for stability during slides and wide sidelines for grinding on obstacles. Park decks, on the other hand, feature tapered sides and a concave shape.
Deck weight accounts for nearly half the total weight of the scooter (from 1.1 kg to 1.9 kg). When choosing a deck for street riding, opt for lighter ones—they make rotation tricks easier, although they are harder to control because of their greater width and length. Park scooter decks, in contrast, are usually narrower, shorter, and heavier than street decks.
Stunt scooter decks almost always come with an integrated headset. In integrated decks, a bearing is already installed (more on headsets below).
Deck Material: Most decks in this segment are made of lightweight aircraft-grade aluminum such as 6061, 6082, and 7000 series with T6 heat treatment.
Size Range: Deck lengths start at 48 cm, with the longest reaching about 58-59 cm. For park riding, most riders prefer decks that are 50-53 cm long. Width varies from 10 to 13 cm. An optimal foot placement area measures 33-38 cm. The size should be chosen individually, based on the rider’s dimensions and riding style. A deck that is too large and does not match the rider’s foot size can cause injuries to ankles and hinder trick execution.
Deck with concave and flat comparison
Each manufacturer of extreme scooter decks offers its own features, such as:
- Hand welding.
- Post-weld heat treatment.
- Forging processes.
- Pre-installed brakes made from steel, nylon, or other materials.
- Alloy-strengthening additives.
- Concave angles ranging from 2° to 6°.
- Built-in axles.
- Integrated fork systems, etc.
A note: The rear axle of some decks is not designed for pegs and may need to be replaced with a longer axle (approximately 2").
Headset
The headset is a critical component of a professional scooter’s overall performance. It allows the fork to rotate smoothly and silently within the deck’s head tube, ensuring agility and control.
Non-integrated, semi-integrated, and integrated headsets
What distinguishes scooter headsets:
- Integrated (industrial bearings) - the bearing is pressed directly into the head tube. Changing an integrated headset with industrial bearings is recommended along with the deck.
- Semi-integrated (industrial bearings) - standard headsets, similar to those used in 1 1/8" bicycles, are quite reliable and allow for component replacement when necessary. Their construction reduces play and gaps between bearings and the cartridge, with bearings sealed by rubber or silicone dust caps. Installing this type of headset requires tools and skill since precise fitting to the head tube is essential.
- Non-integrated (loose ball bearings) - typically found on very budget-friendly complete scooters with steel forks that use threaded compression. These headsets are designed for a single season of active riding by beginners and quickly wear out. They are hard to replace and maintain.
Scooter headset types
Handlebars (bars)
Scooter handlebars come in a wide variety of lengths and widths to suit different heights and shoulder widths. Some stores offer metal cutting services and can shorten any bar or adjust the slit.
There are 5 main criteria for choosing bars for a stunt scooter:
- Material (weight);
- Dimensions (width and height);
- Tubing size (Standard/Oversize);
- Shape (T/Bat-Wing/Y/Y with gussets);
- Slit or no slit.
Material. The vast majority of bars for freestyle scooters are made from either aluminum or chrome-molybdenum alloy steel (CrMo Steel). Steel bars are heavier but have certain advantages over aluminum ones: they are highly durable and can be repaired—cracks in steel can be welded, allowing for another 2–3 months of riding. Aluminum bars, on the other hand, are typically not worth welding (it’s expensive and short-lasting), and the weakest points are the welds on wide handlebars. However, the weight difference is significant: a steel bar averages 1.1-1.3 kg depending on its dimensions, whereas an aluminum bar weighs around 0.75-0.85 kg.
Bars for freestyle scooters
A scooter bar is not just an aluminum or steel tube of a certain size. The construction of bars is continually improved: steel additives, welding modifications, reinforcements, and stiffening ribs in areas of high stress. However, large drops, such as stair sets, can destroy even a spiral-welded tube within a single season.
Choosing handlebar sizes based on the rider’s height is detailed below.
Bar Tubing Size refers to the diameter of the main tube. Both outer and inner diameters are specified: the outer diameter determines the type of compression system, while the inner diameter relates to the fork.
- 31.8 mm - inner Ø of Standard bars, compatible with ICS, IHC, and SCS (with a shim).
- 34.9 mm - inner Ø of Oversize bars, compatible with SCS (without a shim) and HIC.
Inner and outer bar diameters for scooters
Slit or Cut. The compatibility of bars with a specific type of compression is always indicated in the product description at purchase. A slit in the lower portion of the main tube suggests compatibility with ICS and HIC compression systems. The height of the slit on a stunt scooter bar should exceed the height of the clamp to ensure effective compression. This aspect is often overlooked, but the slit size relative to the clamp height is highly significant. Slit sizes are typically 2.5", 2", or 1.5".
Shape. The choice of bar shape depends on riding style and the desired weight. Lightweight T-shaped bars are generally preferred for street riding but have a vulnerability where the main tube meets the crossbar. Y-shaped bars distribute weight more evenly but the braces and gussets add significantly to the weight. To balance the weight, Y-shaped bars often feature thinner main tubes or have grooves, which can reduce their strength around the clamp area. BMX-style Bat-Wing bars are the safest, most reliable, and ergonomic, but also the heaviest—they can disrupt the scooter’s balance by shifting the center of gravity.
Another feature to consider is handlebar angles: “Upsweep,” where the ends of the bars angle upward, and “Backsweep,” where they curve toward the rider. This is purely a matter of personal preference. The backsweep angle can range from two to five degrees.
Backsweep design on stunt scooter bars
The tubing of bars may feature ridging along the inner surface. The ridges are meant to reduce weight while preserving the tube’s diameter.
Grooves reduce handlebar weight but make them more vulnerable in high-stress areas.
Fork
Choosing a Scooter Fork: A Task for Experienced Riders
Choosing a scooter fork is truly a task for experienced riders who understand that its weight can be crucial for achieving balance, while the thickness of the fork blades determines how long you can grind on pegs without breaking them, whether you need to raise or lower the handlebars, and so on.
Scooter Forks for Tricks
A fork consists of a steerer tube and blades for the wheel.
Key Criteria for Choosing Scooter Forks
- Material and weight (steel/aluminum);
- Diameter and length of the steerer tube;
- Compatibility with the compression system;
- Compatibility with wheel diameter;
- Offset.
Material
The vast majority of forks for professional trick scooters are made of various aluminum alloys (7000-T6, 7075-T6, 6082, 6061-T6, 2000 Billet Aircraft Aluminum). Why aluminum? It has no weld seams (solid metal milled construction), and it is 20%-40% lighter than steel (depending on the model and steerer tube length). The weak point of aluminum forks is the steerer tube (although some models include steel inserts), whereas steel forks have the disadvantage of weight and welded blade joints, but they boast a much stronger steerer tube.
Both aluminum and steel modern scooter forks are of high quality. The choice mainly depends on their weight and your riding style: High jumps and hard landings wear out any fork quickly. For peg grinds, you’ll need thicker blades; lightweight forks are better for street riding, and heavier ones for park riding. However, this is not a strict rule. Ultimately, a lightweight fork can shift the center of rotation away from the deck’s offset, ensuring the scooter does not rotate around the headtube. Conversely, a heavier fork can balance a shifted center of gravity caused by a heavy deck.
Steerer Tube Length
The length of the fork’s steerer tube corresponds to the type of compression system, while its diameter matches the headset size (1 1/8").
Compression Types and Fork Steerer Tube Length
As for compatibility with the compression system, the best advice is always the same: first, choose a compression system that suits you, and then everything else, including the fork. Skillful riders can adapt any fork to fit any compression system if needed. SCS and HIC forks differ in dimensions—full-size HIC forks extend several centimeters into the handlebar, whereas SCS forks do not and have a slightly shorter steerer tube. Otherwise, these forks are nearly identical.
Compatibility with Wheel Diameter
The compatibility of a fork with wheel diameter is always specified by the manufacturer, and it’s best to follow their recommendations. Fork strength is designed to accommodate the specified wheel size, ensuring a maximal balance between durability and efficiency.
Fork Offset
Offset is the forward displacement of the axle in relation to the headset’s vertical axis, causing the wheel to slightly protrude. Offset is standardized to two measurements: 0 mm and 10 mm, with rare exceptions of 11.5 mm. Offset increases the distance between wheels (useful for lengthening the deck), improves scooter stability, and reduces the likelihood of nose-diving or tipping over. Zero-offset forks make the pro scooter more agile, reducing the turning radius and enhancing precision. With zero-offset forks, the deck doesn’t “wobble,” barspins are smoother, and amplitude tricks are more fluid. Zero-offset forks may also help compensate for an excessively long deck. To decide which option works best, you should try both, as there are avid fans of both zero-offset and forward-offset forks.
Offset vs. Zero-Offset Forks
Important Note: Some fork designs are not compatible with pegs!
Wheels
Wheels for trick scooters are a consumable part and another component whose selection depends 90% on riding style and personal preferences.
Criteria for Choosing Professional Scooter Wheels
- Diameter (100/110/115/120/125 mm);
- Wheel core type (spoked/solid/honeycomb);
- Core material (plastic/metal);
- Polyurethane hardness (Durometer) (82A–89A).
Wheel Diameter
Wheel diameter directly affects not only speed and turning radius but also the overall weight of the scooter. The lightest 100 mm wheels weigh around 300 grams per pair, while the heaviest 125 mm ones weigh 600 grams. Since larger wheels (120 mm and 125 mm) are gaining popularity in parks, there are plenty of forks compatible with them, but you often need to replace the standard brake on the deck, as larger wheels may not fit with it.
Wheels for Professional Trick Scooters
The Ø110 mm trick wheels are the standard, and there are no compatibility issues when installing them with any fork, deck, or brake. This size can be considered the golden mean for scooters: a balanced combination of maneuverability, moderate speed, direct balance, and shock absorption due to the increased polyurethane volume.
Core Type
The difference between spoked and solid cores in scooter wheels is mainly in weight. They have little to no impact on durability or ride quality. Problems with bent cores are rare and generally result from extremely careless trick execution and/or very heavy riders. The bearings (helium) are more likely to fail before the cores themselves.
Core Material
The wheel cores of extreme scooters are always made of metal. Wheel Hardness affects speed and comfort during jumps. Wheels with an 88A hardness are commonly used in parks with wooden or rubber surfaces, while street riders opt for 84A-85A due to the softer polyurethane providing better shock absorption during harsh landings.
Wheel Shape, or profile, affects the functionality of the wheel: the larger the contact area (“footprint” width of the polyurethane at the contact point with the surface), the higher the grip and stability (ideal for mastering manuals). A profile that narrows toward the edge ensures sharp and easy turns. Wheel width is standardized at 24 mm.
Pegs
Here’s a helpful tip: try to select pegs, forks, and decks from the same brand. Often, there are compatibility issues with axle lengths.
Pegs for professional freestyle scooters
Pegs are made from steel for street riding and aluminum for park use, although certain models are covered with plastic for smoother grinding.
Not all models come with an axle and bolts, but some sets include two or three bolts, axles of varying lengths, and spacers for compatibility with different forks and decks (all of these extras typically impact the price).
Pegs for forks and their installation on the front axle
When a fork is not designed for pegs, a screw-spacer must be installed between the dropout and the peg. The same applies to axles on decks.
Installing pegs on the deck's axle with a spacer
How to Choose a Freestyle Scooter Based on Rider Skill Level
When getting your first complete setup, there’s no need to overthink it, as beginners will likely put any scooter through heavy wear and tear while learning basic tricks.
Skill Level: Beginner
Most riders start with an inexpensive folding scooter with plastic wheels and threaded forks. These scooters allow you to practice and determine your interests, but entry-level setups are not suitable for long-term athletic progress.
Key criteria for choosing the first professional scooter for a beginner:
- Lightweight Design. A heavy scooter can be dangerous for a beginner, difficult to maneuver, and inconvenient for learning basic tricks. Starting with a heavy scooter can quickly kill enthusiasm. A scooter weighing up to 4 kg is ideal for a beginner.
- Wide Deck. The foot placement and support area should be wide enough to practice balance.
- Small 100 mm Wheels. Smaller wheels limit speed, which is important at the beginner level. Additionally, scooters with small wheels are more agile. Wheels sized 110-125 mm are better suited for park models.
Skill Level: Intermediate
There are professional scooter models designed for intermediate riders who already know which components best suit their riding style.
- Higher-Quality Components. At this level, riders can select the type of compression system, non-standard handlebars, and other components.
- Larger Wheels. Wheels measuring 110-125 mm enable decent speed for street and park riding and provide a larger contact area with the surface.
- Material Quality. The build materials generally match the quality you’d expect in the professional freestyle scooter segment. This includes alloy steel and aerospace-grade aluminum. However, park scooter models may slightly exceed 4 kg in weight.
Skill Level: Pro
Professional riders know exactly what they want from their scooter. Advanced riders often prefer to assemble their scooter using components tailored to their riding style and specific preferences. Pro-series scooter brands offer models designed with input from renowned riders, using premium materials and exclusive components.
Here’s a great video that mentions a few nuances I might have missed.
Choosing a Scooter Based on Rider Size
“Size matters”—selecting a scooter without considering the rider’s height and build is ill-advised. Avoid buying a scooter “for future growth,” as this could lead to injuries due to poor maneuverability and excess weight.
Handlebar Size: The handlebar height should reach the hip joint or slightly higher when the rider is standing on the deck. Some stores offer metal trimming services, which makes sizing handlebars for a scooter relatively simple. Handlebar width should match the shoulder width, as it partially determines stability and turning capability.
How to choose handlebars for a scooter
The more experienced the rider, the more diverse their preferences in handlebar dimensions, as width and height influence trick execution. With extended arms, the handlebar and scooter come under full control, making high drops and bunny hops easier with a lower handlebar. A taller bar is more suitable for performing manuals.
Deck Size: Extra space isn’t necessary. Feet should fit on the deck without excess room while maintaining stability. Most freestyle scooter decks measure 4" to 4.5" in width and 19" to 21" in length. Scooter Weight: The best professional scooters for freestyle weigh between 3.5 to 4.5 kg. The choice of weight also depends on the riding style: street scooters typically have a flat and lightweight deck, pegs, and small wheels, while park-style scooters are more robust and heavier. Beginner riders and teenagers who are still growing should avoid the heaviest models, as they are harder to control.
The most demanding riders assemble scooters from individually purchased parts that are 100% tailored to their specifications, riding style, and design preferences.
How Much Will It Cost?
At a minimum, a very good professional stunt scooter can be built for $250-$300. Ready-made completes for beginner and intermediate levels start at $150, but the upper limit can go as high as you want. A scooter for kick scootering should not be assembled from used parts, as this is an entirely unjustified expenditure of money and time.
Don’t forget about safety.
